January 31, 2017
FIDM Library Style Report Winter 2017
Moving toward 2019, the worldview changes, embracing libraries and schools, and new ways of learning. Truth, beauty, craft and technology shift and are placed into a more honorable status. Ideas of leisure instead of labor dominate this new paradigm. Brick-and-mortar and online schools embrace the importance of relaxation to improve the brain’s ability to absorb information. Lounging areas, inviting students to kick off their shoes, becomes an important new aspect to the normal curriculum overload. Similarly, employers will allow leisure time to be factored into business trips, without sacrificing productivity, but instead enhancing it.
We are leaving the industrial world behind, and welcoming an era of thought. Ideas will lead, opening up a shift in perception. Patience—a diminishing commodity—comes into play as designs encourage careful thought and empathic interactions. Retail stores are discovering ways to slow customers down, inviting them to explore, and offering a more intuitive connection with merchandise based on lifestyle rather than brand. Discovery is key, which encourages wandering rather than an organization of products on demand. Layouts are more fluid, almost museum-like in design, and customers have the opportunity to be surprised or delighted at every turn.
The traditional banking model is changing, with the increased use of smartphones to track finances. Brett King of the digital banking platform Moven coined the term “bite-size banking” to describe generation Y and their expectations for the future. The focus will be on user experience, and offer personalized answers to specific financial questions through banking apps. Younger customers, as well as the 50+ consumer will be more involved with tracking their money, and better able to save, using the “bite-size” model.
Mobile devices and home appliances will take on their own personalities, as the ‘internet of things’ gives rise to responsive technologies, such as a lamp that tweets live conversations, or a phone that acts like a puppy. In development is a faux fur phone charger that only needs to be petted to do its job. Music and scent apps enhance social connection, and invigorate the senses. A multi-sensory empathy is becoming prevalent in our devices, paving the way for a more intuitive and personal world.
Spartan styling and utility dominates womenswear. The focus is on good design and classic details. Clean, long-line silhouettes emphasize functionality, including oversized patch pockets to carry electronic devices. Outerwear has a luxurious feel, in fine wool and cashmere flannels. Navy and black make up the neutral palette, accentuated with a punch of red. Masculine lines are relaxed with soft draped fabrics and brushed finishes. Minimalist-inspired separates are worn multi-layered, and colors complement in a tone-on-tone effect. Knitwear sees slouchy sweaters, tunics, and capes with wrapped and tied detailing, offered in fully fashioned or cut-and-sew styles in Merino wool and cashmere.
The other side of the spectrum—romanticism—inspires in exaggerated sleeves, stylized bell shapes, high waists, and pleats. Easy, slouchy silhouettes, voluminous midi-length skirts, dresses, and coats with nipped-in waists conjure the poet. This is leisure wear with a twist. Ruffles become rebellious styled in stripes, sporty mesh, and jersey.
Pantone’s Avocado emerges as an updated retro color which creates impact on sheer, layered fabrics, silk crepe, and soft leathers. Other key colors include Metallic Silver Ash for accessories, Aquarian Green for bags and textiles, Burnt Bronze for footwear, and Astro Plum for holiday looks. Vanilla is a calm neutral for both women and men.
Key components include: shearling parkas, voluminous folk tops, color-blocked anoraks, oversized shirts, midi dresses, full shirt dresses, simple military skirts, and uneven layered maxi skirts.
Menswear focuses on relaxed silhouettes and comfort, from urban sportswear to smarter silhouettes. Workwear details in fur-lined parkas, trousers, and truckers are updated, paired with cable-knit turtlenecks and textured coats. Boiler suits are more sophisticated in traditional menswear checks. Camo is prevalent, sporting strong military details, in patterns inspired by organic substances such as minerals. The natural landscape goes tonal in full-length looks that make a strong statement.
An eclectic mix of ‘retro’ styles form era-less looks creating a more ambiguous, yet familiar feeling. Classic streetwear becomes more refined, and updated in luxe fabrics with a casual vibe. Preppy styles take on exaggerated shapes, while still retaining an academic attitude. Zip-neck sweat tops are good for layering, and add interest with zipper trim or varsity appliques. A new romanticism channels the dandy, and softens the edges of dressy looks, featuring ruffles, brocades, floral embroidery, and brighter colors. Patterned suits and topcoats enhance the look. Counter to this is a punk attitude utilizing oversized shapes, deconstruction, and repurposed materials for a new angle on the rebellious subversive stance.
Pantone colors point to the importance of brown tones; Satchel Tan for suedes and leathers, Chestnut, Café Crème, and Brick Red for fabrics and accessories, and Sunset Gold as an accent to sumptuous textures.
Key components include: soft structured double breasted suits, denim parkas, ski-style and multi-pocket bombers, grunge check overshirts, poet’s shirts, baggy skater chinos, and turtlenecks.
Historical designs are reinterpreted in details such as scrolls, pleats, and classical sculpture. Timelessness and practicality are two important features going forward. An antique appeal shows in updated furniture and accessories embossed with gilded touches. A thoughtful mood permeates, in smart, postmodern style and somber colors; an urban industrial sensibility inspired by asphalt surfaces and mesh fencing. Plastic finishes are a rebellious take on traditional designs, flirting with architectural shapes; keeping it clean and simple. Conceptual designs allow for clever storage solutions; exposed construction housing drawers, cabinetry, and shelves. Architectural simplicity conjures up mid-century modern, and materials composed of wood, ceramic, resin, smoked glass, and textiles.
Colors are a graphic inspired balance of unassuming forms and materials, which can be applied to furniture, lighting, and accessories, and cross over into apparel and footwear. Pantone neutrals include Serpentine and Dry Walnut, with complements of Autumn Rose and Atmospheric Grey. Elegant accents include Collegiate Red and Deep Sapphire, while Primrose and Powdered Blue keep it sophisticated.
The utilitarian concept creates a modular and lightweight approach. Inspired by ancient carrying methods, tied and wrapped products emerge. Meanwhile, eco-friendly products remain tactile in nature; farming waste used for hard materials, consumer waste such as coffee grounds used in home goods, rough weaves, and furry, sensual hides. Surplus materials are compressed in shiny resin, creating a rich, dark mood. Glitter and plastics are combined with jeweled textures for an otherworldly beauty. Nostalgia plays into the new sustainable attitude; vintage products and materials are reused, and a new era of retro emerges.
Images via WGSN
Categories: Library, Fashion, FIDM, Featured, Trends